Old Roman cities are fairly well represented all over North Africa, but it proves difficult to find any better site of Greek ruins than Cyrene. Not only does it have a fantastic setting, at the beginning of the beautiful Jabalu l-Akhdar, looking out in direction of the Mediterranean Sea, but the site is deliciously only partly excavated: Chances are more than theoretical that you can come over priceless items, like mosaics and statues, under the sand. The feeling of actually discovering something, so easily lost when walking around ancient sites complete with dustbins and multilinguist guides, survives all through your visit at Cyrene.
Much of the history of Cyrene has survived, and the legend on the formation of the place is a gem. Battus went to the oracle of Delphi to seek advice. The oracle told him that he should people with him, and settle in Libya. Battus so did. But he and his expedition landed on a small island. Disatisfied with this island, Battus returned to the oracle, only to be told that he had not yet arrived in Libya. Once again Battus had to set out, and he did arrive in Libya. 6 years later the colonists moved to the site of Cyrene, and in the centuries that followed the place prospered.
How much of this is actually true, we cannot know. But Cyrene was a colony, and one believes that the colonists came from the island today known as Santorini. The years that followed saw close relations between the Greeks and the Libyans, and some generations of intermarriage brought made the two peoples into one. However, new groups of Greeks continued to come, so it never really lost its Greek touch.
The entire site is about 1,300 times 1,300 metres, but much of it has grown together with the village of Shahat, and agricultural fields around it. Of main interest the Temple of Apollo stands out. It was built as early as 7th century BC, but rebuilt 3 centuries later. About 50 metres from the temple, the Fountain of Apollo is situated, of which the water was considered curing. Inside it one can still see the seats where people sat while treated.
Near the temple and the fountain, still inside what was the sanctuary of Apollo, the Great Baths are. Parts of these are in exceptional conditions, and inside the Grand Hall, the pipes leading water from the Fountain of Apollo, are still very much visible.
At the extreme north-west, the theatre is located. This is Roman, though it is believed that that the foundations are Greek. The style is partly Greek. The setting right here is stunning, right behind the stage the hills fall, and offers a dramatic view over the landscape that stretches out to the sea. In the centre of Cyrene, on the Agora (the town square), the Tomb of Battus is located, giving some substance to the stories of the origin of Cyrene. There is slightly less to see here, though the Forum of Proculus is in good condition.
Around Cyrene, the Necropolis has taken up an ubelievable size, an estimated 10 km². There are still hundreds of tombs cut into the hills, and many have the shape of mausoleums or temples.
Going next :
susa ( apollonian ) 20 km northeast.